Pintxos me, I must be dreaming.

San Sebastian is a large town on the northern coast of Spain. Not far from the mountains that border France, this is part of the Basque region.




Basque cuisine has a very long and proud history and here in San Sebastian, there a huge variety of food on offer, including plenty of seafood. Wandering around the old town of San Sebastian, you might stumble across one of the private cooking clubs, called txokos. These are traditionally men-only clubs, where men gather and shop and cook together, often followed by some singing.


The bars, which are everywhere are always groaning with platters of small foods - usually on bread - called pintxos. These are usually one or two bites and often have a decent amount of mayonnaise in them.


The way to eat and drink here is usually standing at the bar. I ordered a beer and asked for a plate. As I enjoy my beer, I reach out and choose whatever looks good from the platters spread from one end of the bar to the other.

The presentation is exceptional and everything looks appetising and exciting.



Some are based on seafood, others on jamon or vegetables. Some bars are better at certain things, so experimentation and window shopping are part of the meal. Ingredients that are very common are octopus, baccalao (salt cod), anchovies and jamon.


At lunch and dinner, the popular places get so crowded that people will squeeze in to order a drink, grab a few pintxos and spill out onto the street to drink, eat and chat. All of the bars have cold beer on tap, one of the most common being San Miguel, a light refreshing beer, great for drinking on a hot summer day. Another favourite is the local cider, usually poured from very high up to incorporate air into it, can be a taste to get used to as it can be a bit sour.


Probably the most surprising thing about most of these places is that they work on the honor system - that is you drink and eat and then tell the bartender what you had and he will charge you accordingly. Most pintxos are served with skewers and the bartender can sometimes just count these and charge you for that number.

San Sebastian is a very popular tourist destination and I heard more English spoken than Spanish as I was walking around the town. There is always something happening and people wander around all day and all night, eating, drinking and dancing.

It's great to hear aussie accents and chat with people about good places around town, but it's important to get past the obvious tourist places and find the exciting places that are doing something a little different and I'll be talking about a couple of these in the next update.

Perguia - The hills are alive

Driving north through Italy from Rome couldn't have been easier, the roads are clearly marked and the speed limit on the highway is 130 km/hr. I was heading for Perugia, which I had read about as being a beautiful mountain town with great views and good food, especially known for their truffles and the fact that the Baci Chocolates are made there.

Arriving in Perugia, I discovered that it is a warren of tiny streets with almost no parking, but the hotel was able to give me a permit and I basically parked the car as close as I could get to the hotel (about two blocks) and left it there for the one night that I was staying there. Everything in town is within walking distance and it is a gorgeous buzzing town. The centerpiece of the main part of town is a fountain in a piazza with several large sets of stairs nearby. These stairs are the major meeting place in town and every time I walked past them, they were packed with people just sitting and chatting.


Walking past the stairs, I entered the main street, which was full of people enjoying the evening and having appertivo.


Appertivo is a fantastic experience in Italy, it is usually the time between the end of the working day and dinner, when everyone goes out for a couple of drinks. The thing about Italy is that even the drinking is about eating here. During this time, which is their Happy Hour, most bars offer a buffet of finger food to the people who are there having a drink. Even though the idea is to have a little snack to get your appetite going for dinner, you can basically have enough to fill up for the price of one drink. The toughest part is choosing which bar has the best looking selection of foods. Some common ones are cold cuts, parmeggiano reggiano cheese with balsamic vinegar, bread and dips, antipasto, etc.


As the sun had not yet set, I decided to walk to the end of the main street to check out the view. It seems that you can almost see forever and everywhere you turn is a different, spectacular scene.


As the sun started heading down, I headed for a restaurant I had spotted earlier which caught my attention, Caffe Di Perugia. I ordered a Negroni (a bitter cocktail, often served for appertivo) before my meal and was also given a selection from the appertivo buffet which I didn't ask for, but was gladly accepted. I skipped the Antipasto and selected the Tagliatell con Tartufo Nero (Tagliateli with Black Truffles) and was not disappointed by the amount of truffles used as you can see.


This was quite tasty and simple, I really enjoyed it.

The dessert selection didn't really grab my attention, but I decided to try the Semifreddo Nocciola (Hazelnut Semifreddo).



This was way too sweet for me, but I'm sure all you chocaholics out there would like it since it had a chocolate center.

I loved this town and if I were to come here again I would definitely stay longer, but since the next day was Monday the many of the better restaurants are closed on Mondays, I decided to move on to Bologna.

Meanwhile, back in Serbia

So, attentive readers will note that I didn't update you on my way to Novi Sad as promised. I had a plan to wrap up the Serbian chapter of my blog with a post about street food and I wanted to get photos of all the various types of street food available, especially after arriving in a beautiful ski resort (I know it's summer, but it was still full of people) called Zlatibor (meaning Golden Pine). The forests around this area are beautiful pine forests and people were everywhere on the first night. That was when I decided that the next night I would come back to town and photograph all the street food available in the area. Unfortunately, the weather took a turn for the worse the next morning and it didn't stop raining all day, so when I got out the umbrella and wandered into the town there were only a few brave souls wandering about, usually from a restaurant to a bar or the other way around. I did manage to take a photo of the most common type of street food.

The Rostilj.

As you can see, they have all types of meat available to grill; sausages, hamburgers, pork fillet, chicken, cevapi, etc some in various forms (different spices or flavourings in the meat). This meat is already cooked and usually just gets a refire on the grill before serving. Basically you select your meat and the type of bread you want it in - either a bun or pita bread - and they put it on the grill to heat up. You pay for that and then add any/all/none of the various free condiments or additions available; White onion, cabbage, coleslaw, tomato, cucumber, chili, ketchup, mustard, etc. The price is very reasonable, with most choices being in the 200-300 RSD range (which you can see on the board to the left if you click on the image above) which is about $4-5 AUD. Other forms of street food you will see often in Serbia include Pancake Stalls, Corn Stalls (popped or boiled) and of course Icecream stands.


While the street food is cheap and filling, I really wanted to find somewhere that was showing real signs of moving Serbian cuisine forward. I was hoping to find that in Novi Sad which is said to be the most cosmopolitan city in Serbia. Unfortunately it turned out that after all the driving through the mountains I was not feeling very well and couldn't face the thought of a meal on our first night, so I just had a sandwich. The following day, I still wasn't feeling great, but we made the march from the centre of town across the river and up to the Fort overlooking Novi Sad. The view was impressive, but the stairs were not so much fun.

We decided to stop at a Carda for lunch which was right on the river. A carda is a hungarian style restarant specialising in fish dishes. We were told by everyone we spoke to that eating at a Carda is a guarantee of eating very fresh fish and since my dad is obsessed with fish soups, we decided to go and try out their thicker hungarian style called a Perkelt. This is served with noodles and is a blended soup made from vegetables and fish (usually Carp and/or Catfish) which is boiled together to form the soup base which is then blended and then fresh fish (usually firm, white fish like Pike or Perch) is added to cook in the soup before serving.


This had a very nice fish flavour and had a dense creamy texture, although there were several bones still in the fish which was a little annoying.

The next day we went for a drive and decided to eat a a place called a Salas there are many of these around and they are basically like hobby farms. We were recommended to try one called Salas 137. On arrival, we walked around the property which was neat and well cared for, had many horses and looked to be a working horse farm. The restaurant is mainly outdoor seating and the mismatched tablecloths and rustic chairs of various colours - rather than detract from the overall ambience - really gave a warm, friendly character to the place. The menu supported this feeling with dishes like Neighbor's Pork - A pig stolen from the neighbor and it's loin stuffed and rolled so even the neighbor wouldn't recognise it. The menu was quite extensive, with many foods used in different ways to what I had seen previously, but also some very traditional meals I had eaten when I was young in my grandparent's house but hadn't seen available in any restaurants so far. Seeing things like Koh (a sponge cake soaked in a bowl of milk) and Snenokle (egg white islands floating in a custard sauce) really brought back a lot of memories from my childhood. I was looking forward to this meal.

Firstly, my parents both ordered the traditional chicken soup, which is something I remember being served on Sunday lunches since I was a baby. I chose the Daska (or Board) which is a chopping board filled with various cheeses, pates and meats made either on site or locally.


This is an entree for one and yes, I did sample it before I took the photo...:) On there you can see from top left, Persut (prosciutto), pate with paprika and garlic, kajmak (a creamy cheese), above that is Gibanice (a cheese filled filo pastry), a fish pate (trout is my guess), cornbread, above the cornbread you can just barely see a slice of the house-made Kulen (spicy salami) which was the best I had yet tasted, then on the bottom row another piece of the Kulen, 3 different cheeses and a slice of a beef salami. The black thing in the middle is a prune...you'll see more of these later.

For mains, my dad liked the sound of the Neighbor's Pig, mum chose the Ham Hock cooked casserole style with cream and I chose the Goulash in mustard sauce.

Neighbor's Pig

This was served cold with raw radishes, raw hot pepper and a side of horseradish. The raw vegetables were no surprise, but this time I think they added to the rustic feeling of the dish and in this setting they seemed to work, although they were all very spicy according to my dad. The skin on the pork was rubbery, but the taste overall was ok.

Ham Hock with horseradish and cream

As promised, another prune! This dish was rich and decadent, but unfortunately the garlic and horseradish were was too strong and killed what should have been a nice smoky flavour from the hock.
Goulash in Mustard Sauce with Mashed Potato

Yes, I know you've already noticed....another prune! They might want to look at some variety in their garnishes at some stage. The mash was creamy and delicious, the meat was tender and broke apart at the touch of the fork, but the sauce didn't taste at all like mustard and the entire dish was cold. I put this down to the fact that even though they used a cast iron dish to serve it, they didn't cook it in there or even heat the dish before serving so as soon as they put the hot food into the cold dish, it started to get cold.

The portion sizes were again way to big and I couldn't even eat half of mine, although I was saving some space for dessert.

Snenokle have long been one of my dad's favourite desserts so he had to try them here.
The flavour was quite good, being enhanced by the caramel sauce and the custard was a smooth texture.

Mum chose the Krempita (literally Cream Pie, but similar to Vanilla Slice).
This was much lighter than any vanilla slice you would find in Melbourne, with the custard being more of a light whipped cream texture than the dense custard you would normally get.

I was going to choose the Koh, but once I say the baked palacinke filled with walnuts and cooked in milk I had to get that instead since this is so similar to a dessert that my grandmother and mother taught me to cook and that I have always enjoyed.

Unfortunately, this was also served cold. The crepes were tough and took several tries to cut through with the spoon, the walnuts tasted great, but 30 seconds in a microwave would have made this a much better dessert.

Overall, Salas 137 is showing real signs of wanting to move forward and even though the execution really leaves a lot to be desired, I'm encouraged by what I see here and recommend anyone who visits Novi Sad to make the 10-15 minute drive out to this place and support what they are doing. Don't miss out on the Kulen!

Montenegro Part 1

Train journeys conjure up romantic images of steam engines puffing through verdant green hillsides and mountains, crossing bridges hundreds of meters high over mighty flowing rivers. This is why we decided to load our car onto a train and experience the 10 hour train journey from Belgrade in Serbia to Bar in Montenegro. This was an overnight journey, so we went for the sleeping carriage so that we could be refreshed and rested when we arrived early the next morning and enjoy the day. I was also imagining those old movies where the people in the sleeping cars come together in the restaurant car to have some nice food and chat the trip away while enjoying the view.

The first part of this process was loading the car onto the train. Before we got on the train, the car was checked for height to make sure it would fit. After the lady checking the car made a face and came up to us saying, "that's a large car, but we'll see how it goes". This didn't fill me with confidence. Nevertheless, when I got to the ramp, the guy that was there said the car should be fine, but to stay in the very center of the path down the carriage or it would damage the roof of the car. I had to drive the car onto the top level of the train and drive down 3 carriages along a very dark track which was about 2 feet wider than the car and about 15 cm taller than the car. All went smoothly and I stopped the car and got out and realised I had to walk back the way I had come, while other cars were coming forward. At one point I had to hang out of the side of the carriage to let a Mercedez get past, but managed to get out safely.

Our carriage was almost at the front of the train, so we headed all the way forward and climbed onto the train. To say that our cabin was cramped would be an understatement. The room was the size of a small bathroom with 2 sets of bunk beds, each barely the width of a towel and a gap between them only large enough for one person to stand between them. Basically if you wanted to be in the cabin, you had to be lying on the bed. I thought this would be ok as I would find the restaurant or bar area and spend most of the trip there when I wasn't sleeping. You can probably guess what happened....there was no restaurant or bar. Not even a kiosk from which to buy water or junk food. The toilets were not pleasant and the first one I went into - not long after the train left - had no paper.

I resigned myself to sleeping through the whole trip, but this proved very difficult. Firstly the beds are so tiny you can't get comfortable and then part of the way into the trip we realised the heating was on. This on a hot summer day and on a train where people sleep in their clothes. We had the door and the window both open and the cabin was still as hot as a sauna. Eventually I got out of bed as I couldn't stand the heat anymore and went and stood in the corridor with my head out the open window and noticed several other people doing the same thing. It turns out that the whole carriage was being heated, not just our room, so I decided to find the conductor and get him to turn it off. After looking everywhere, we couldn't find him and after about 20 minutes a conductor from one of the other cars was walking past and told us that our conductor was asleep in the last cabin and went to wake him up. After complaining to him, he told me the whole train was heated (which I knew wasn't true as I had walked through several cars trying to find him), but eventually went and turned it off. I asked him for some bottled water (which the other conductor had told me he could provide) and he told me he had none, then about 5 minutes later came and brought some to us. The mind boggles. I did manage to grab a few minutes sleep here and there, totaling maybe a few hours. When the sun finally came up, the views were spectacular, steep hills and deep gorges, long tunnels and glistening lakes. If I wasn't so sore and tired I would have enjoyed it more, but it is amazing country.

When we arrived, it was a simple matter of driving the car down the ramp, loading up and onto the road. As we drove along the coast, I began to realise why so many people from all over Europe come here to spend their holidays. The water looks amazing and the mountains seem to rise straight out of the water, with ancient ruins and monastaries and small villages perched in seemingly impossible locations. Walking into our apartment and looking out the windows was a revelation. Our front door is literally 5 meters from the water. Here are the photos.

The view from our kitchen windows:


The view from the balcony:



And finally, the view from my shower....yes, my shower has it's own window.