Time to Saüc up the good life.

Saüc (the local word for Elder Berries) is a one Michelin starred restaurant in Barcelona and head chef Xavier Franco provides a menu which reflects Catalan cuisine using traditional, local flavours and ingredients in a fine dining setting. With several different options in tasting menus and a very reasonable fixed price lunch menu plus a la carte, you can have a great meal at a highly rated restaurant without breaking the bank.

I decided on the full five course tasting menu this also includes two appetisers, a cheese plate and two desserts.

Firstly, the service was excellent, the staff spoke English, were extremely helpful, described dishes clearly and answered any questions. Also one of the staff members was kind enough to provide me with a copy of the menu and mark the dishes I had during the meal. The fact that I accidentally forgot this in the taxi on the way back to my hotel is entirely my fault.

To start, along with the bread I was given a plate of the brightest green olives along with a cracker and a mysterious jelly cube.

These olives were very morish and the cracker was a cheese cookie which was rich and salty and the jelly was a black olive jelly. These make a great snack and would go well on a bar with a few glasses of wine.

The first appetiser was Mackerel with Dried and Marinated Tomato.

Unfortunately, this photo does not do this dish justice. The slight oiliness of the mackerel was balanced with the sweetness of the tomato.

The second appetiser was Roasted Catalan White Sausage with Parmentiere and Pea Cream.

The colour of this dish jumps out at you and while I went straight in and tried the sausage (and it was a couple of bites if meaty goodness) the parmentiere and pea cream was amazing. Parmentiere is a potato puree, but the potatos are usually cooked in butter instead of water.

So that was the appetisers out of the way, now for the first of the main courses. White Asparagus, Razor Clams, Almond Milk and Basil Mayonnaise.

It was great to see razor clams again and the texture of shellfish alongside perfectly cooked asparagus was a good combination and the asparagus certainly held it's own in the flavour stakes. The almond milk was thick and creamy and the vibrant, almost flourescent dash of basil mayonnaise brings the colour that this dish so obviously needs along with a sweetness that complements the other ingredients.

The second main course was Haricot Beans from Santa Pau, Prawn and Funghi Pil-Pil.

Here once again is the common Catalan flavour combination of seafood and beans. The earthy flavours are powerful, but not without finesse, definitely a combination I would love to work on when I get home. Pil-Pil is commonly a sauce made with garlic and hot peppers and this brightens up the dish quite well.

The next course is a "surf and turf" combination and is not on the main menu. Crispy Dewlap Pork, Baby Squid and Wild Mushroom.

More of those earthy Catalan flavours here, the baby squid which if you've been following the posts about Barcelona you will recognise as a common ingredient here combined with a meaty local mushroom and finger of delicious mystery pork. Dewlap is the fold of skin hanging under the lower jaw and from the neck of the pig and in this case is crispy, crackly goodness on the outside and soft melting pork on the inside. The mushroom is Amanita Caesarea or Ceasar's mushroom and has firm yellow flesh and an orange cap.

Next came the fish course, John Dory on Roasted Tender Wheat with Sea Urchin.


I'm probably a little biased here as John Dory is one of my favourite fish to eat and this was a wonderfully cooked example. The flesh was white and almost translucent and flaked very easily. The skin was crispy and slightly salty, but not overly so. The fish was sitting on a bed of roasted wheat topped with sea urchin roe. To me, the star of this dish was the wheat, I understand that it is roasted in fish stock until tender, but the wheat still retained plenty of chewiness and contrasted very well with the tender fish and ethereal sea urchin roe.

The meat course was the final main course and this one was certainly full of local flavour. Iberian Pork Secret, Jabugo Ham Curd and Beijing Green Beans.



I'm not sure what the secret is, but this is some of the best pork I have ever tasted in my life. Still slightly pink in the middle, this melted in the mouth and tasted like an amazingly tender bacon. This was intensely rich and to be honest was almost more than I could eat because of this, but with a little of the curd to cut through the richness, I managed to make it....:) The beans were nice too, but to be honest I used them more to space out the intensity of the pork than as a part of the dish (but maybe that's why they're there). I'm not entirely sure of the process of making the ham curd, but Jabugo ham is one of the best Iberian hams you can get. I believe the bones of the ham are cooked like a soup and then the soup is curdled somehow to produce a slightly sour, ham-flavoured curd. A memorable dish, but would have been just as memorable in a slightly smaller portion...but I'm not complaining!

The cheese plate was an assortment of Catalan Cheeses.


There are sheep, cow and goat's milk cheeses here served with a pumpkin marmalade, elder (Saüc) berry gelatin and some Strawberry, Raisin and Nut Bread. The first cheese on the left is a sheep's milk cheese with a blue-mold rind which was my favourite. Eaten without the rind it a mild flavoured cheese, but with the rind it gets all those blue mold tastes and becomes something very special. I can't recall exactly what the others were, but the marmalade and elder berry gelatine were a welcome alternative to the common accompaniment of muscatels or quince paste I often see in Melbourne.

Dessert time! The first one is a combination of dessert and palette cleanser. Melon and Ginger Soup with Watermelon Ice and Basil Gel.


Bright and refreshing, this was a great way to move from cheese into dessert. All the flavours were distinct and worked well together, a very summery dish.

Following after this came the Muskovado Cake, Tia Maria ith Mascarpone Cream.


Muskovado is a type of brown sugar and has a strong, syrupy flavour. The cake is a sponge soaked in tia maria and I believe the foam is a chocolate foam, but I'll hope for confirmation on that at some point. A refined, but gentle dessert, this is a great way to finish a good meal. Oh wait, I still need my coffee.

Along with coffee came another surprise:


Petit-Fours: Liquorice and Anise Scum, Almond Cake, Chocolate and Feuillet-Paulletine Rock and Cinnamon Biscuit. Scum is a bit of a strong word for a glass of lightly anise flavoured foam, but these are all wondeful little gems to send me packing back to my hotel for a siesta.

I had a great time at Saüc and seeing Catalan food in this way gives me a different perspective on the ingredients and flavour profiles of this unique region of Spain.

Tapas Dancing

If there was one country I was looking forward to visiting more than any other, it was Spain. I love eating tapas, being able to try many different things in one meal, especially when travelling is a great way to go. In the limited number of meals you have available to you on a holiday means you never get to try all of the amazing flavours and ingredients that represent a local cuisine, but this style of eating allows you to try much more. Not only that, but it is a great way of dining if you are travelling solo, just find a seat at the bar and chat with the people beside you or the bartender, asking what is good that day or what the dishes of other diners taste like is a great way to try the best food.

Let's start with a trip to the central market of Barcelona. As I walk down La Rambla, navigating my way through crowds of tourists mingled with locals and street performers, I find La Boqueria de St Josep. Right at the entrance, I walk past a shop selling many different versions of jamon - spanish ham. Although to call it ham is probably doing it an injustice. Jamon is one of the most sought after hams in the worlds and attracts prices in the hundreds of dollars per kilo. You can see one in this photo selling for 160 Euro per kilogram.

This amazing meat product is one of the best recognised hams in the world, along with prosciutto. One of the ways to tell a quality product is by looking for marbling of fat within the muscle. As you can se, they are displayed with the hoof still attached.

After that, I walk into the fruit and veg section of the market, stalls piled high with delectable fresh-looking produce.

And even a few that I had never seen before.

The fish section has amazingly fresh looking fish and many of the shellfish on display are sold live.

Apart from all the fabulous fresh produce available, there are several Tapas/Pintxos Bars scattered throughout the market. They serve the amazing fresh food of the market cooked right before your eyes. I had to come back to try two of them, but I'm very glad I did. The first visit was to Pinotxo Bar, right near the entrance of the market and as with all of these bars in the market it is always full and you have to wait around for someone to leave and snag their seat before someone else does.

I sat down and asked for a cerveca and whatever they felt like serving me. They started me off with the mussels.

Bursting with fresh, bright flavours, the salsa really enhanced the briney flavour of the plump mussels.

Next came more shellfish, this time clams. The ones on the left are razor clams which I had never tried before, but they were very nice and I'm sure freshness has a lot to do with how good this tastes. They do very little with it, just a slight dressing, allowing the taste of the ingredients to shine through.

The next dish they served me was baby squid and beans.

This is a very different presentation of squid to what I have normally seen. Usually it has been served with bright, fresh flavours. In this case, the flavour was earthy and savoury, the beans tender. To start with, taste buds were craving for something bright and powerful to give some high notes to this dish, but as I ate more and more, I started enjoy this dish more than I thought possible. I was starting to crave the deep savoury flavour and hated when my bowl was empty. As I was eating this dish, the couple next to me had a plate of stew that looked really nice and when I asked them about it they were very pleased.

Even though they couldn't really communicate in too many words of english, I could tell they wanted me to have some by the way the lady grabbed my fork and gave it back with a heap of the stew on it. I asked for a small portion of this.

The meat was tender and the sauce was delicious, more of those savoury flavours that I am coming to enjoy more and more while in Spain.

The other bar in the market that is well worth a mention is El Quim. I only had two things there, but they were both very nice. To start, I saw a dark sausage and asked for one of those.

This was their version of black pudding,this tasted really mild, with a delicate flavour that was a little nutty.

The second dish, which was the dish I had come here to try, was their fried eggs with baby squid. The eggs are served with a runny yolk and covered in baby squid. The waiter told me to cut up the egg and stir it all together.

The yolk creates a sauce that binds this rich, delicious dish together. Again there are lots of savoury flavours going on here with no bright touch to balance it out, but I'm starting to want that less and less as I eat more of the local cuisine.

There are still a few restaurants to talk about, but you'll have to tune in next time to see more amazing Spanish food.

French Connection

Ahhh, Paris - the city of a thousand cliches. The home of towers and temples, bistros and bars, food and fashion, bakers and brandy, merchant and markets....I could alliterate all day.

French cuisine has long been held in high regard by cooks the world over and is home to many classical cooking techniques and dishes. The list is long and I certainly don't have time to experience them all in the few days I am spending here, but I do intend to try as many as I can. Let's start with a bistro classic and one of my personal favourite dishes of all time. Confit de Canard (Duck Confit) is a preparation of duck (usually the leg and thigh) where the meat is basically cooked in its own fat. The usual result is meat that is rich and strong in flavour and usually falling of the bone tender and delicious.


In this version, the duck was not as tender as I have had it previously and not as strongly flavoured, but still delicious. However, the highlight of the dish is the potatoes. I could smell them coming from a mile away they had so much garlic on them and I suspect they were also cooked in duck fat because the taste was amazing and they didn't skimp on quatity either as you can see.


This next classic of French cuisine often has people covering their eyes or avoiding it all together. Steak Tartare (raw steak) has always been one of those challenging dishes for some people, although many who try it actually enjoy it, some people just can't get past the fact that they are eating raw meat.


The meat in this case is Limousin Beef, one of the highest grades of beef available in France and is minced moments before coming to the table and is normally served with condiments and additions like onions or capers and sometimes raw egg. This was a very large serve and after about three quarters of the way through I gave up because I couldn't even taste it anymore. I'm a big fan of steak tartare, but in smaller quantities.

For dessert that night I didn't go for a classic, but I was very interested in the Peach Soup.


Served cold and with icecream this was delicatly sweet in flavour with a strong peachy aroma and taste. A very nice way to end a meal.

Another food commonly associated with the French is Foie Gras. There is much ethical discussion about the process surrounding Foie Gras and I'm not going to get into it here, but if you would like to discuss it, there is a comment section below and I'm happy to put forward their feelings about it or start a discussion. In many bistros around Paris you will see Pate de Fois Gras and that was the way I tried it first.


This was rich, smooth and delicious. Much nicer than many of the liver pates commonly available in Australia.

To follow this, my eye was caught by a sausage listed on the menu as Andouillette AAAAA. Now I have heard of Andouille sausage which is a spicy cajun pork sausage and thought this would be similar, and with all those A's after it it had to be something special right? Well when it came out I was a little taken aback.

Not the prettiest looking sausage in the world is it. That was the first surprise. The second came when I cut into the sausage and discovered not mince or ground meat, but chunky roughly cut substantial pieces of meat. This had a very strong porky flavour and the texture was not like any cut of pork I had had before.


I figured that mystery meat is what most sausages are made of anyway and this is no exception, so I got over my initial trepidation and got stuck into it. This was not the most delicious sausage I had ever had and it had a very powerful, not altogether pleasant flavour. The texture was quite gelatinous and took some getting used to. Now that I have done some research on this sausage I have discovered the reason for the unusual texture and flavour.

Andouillette is a very traditional French tripe sausage. Made from the stomach and intestines or the pig and wrapped in bowel. This sausage has a large following in France and even has an association devoted to it, that is what the AAAAA stands for, The Association Amicale des Amateurs d'Andouillette Authentic (the Friendly Association of Authentic Andouillette Lovers). Anyone who is not adventurous in their tastes may want to consider avoiding this one...:)

Ok, to get your minds off that one for a bit, here´s something pretty.

People in Paris love their Macaroons. These are a delicate baked good, almost like a meringue, crisp on the ouside, soft and delicate in the middle. These are usually served with two of them sandwiching a creamy filling. The flavour combinations are almost endless and the most famous name in macaroons is Pierre Herme, who has been known to make many weird and wonderful flavour combinations, including Ketchup flavour.

Walking down the street where he has his store, it's impossible to miss it as the line of customers goes out the door. I had to wait at least 10 minutes just to get in, but once I was in, it was worth it.

I could sit here all day just taking photos, but people were pushing me to get moving, so I ordered a few (they are not cheap by the way), including the Olive Oil and Vanilla one and moved on. Now I would love to describe how all the different flavours tasted and how amazing they were, but unfortunately, by the time I got back to my hotel room they had started to break down due to the humidity. I scoffed a few....I wasn't going to throw them out after all that, but the flavours had all started to run together and it was hard to distinguish anything in particular.

That was my quick Paris wrap up, there is one more dinner which I will talk about next post because it deserves its own. I loved this city and all the bizarre and delicious food that is available, if you're ever here get out and try something new. You may not like it, but maybe, just maybe you'll find something amazing.

Modena and Hosteria Giusti

While in Bologna, I had planned to spend a day in Modena, which is about 30km north of Bologna and having heard of a restaurant called Hosteria Giusti I really wanted to try it out. Now, the story with Giusti is one that you need to know about before you can get to it. You really need a reservation, so I tried to book it for my last full day in Bologna, but unfortunately it was booked out (it only has 4 tables), but they had a spot for me on the day I was leaving Italy from Milan. Now Modena is between Bologna and Milan and since my flight was departing at 5:45pm I figured that if I had no trafic problems I could still manage it. I really didn't want to miss out.

I headed to Modena a little earlier so I could take a look around town and wondered into the market, and I'm glad I did. The Modena market is almost at the centre of the town and has some sensational looking produce.


Even though Modena is in the middle of Italy, the fish and seafood look extremely fresh and great quality.


The produce is vibrant and colourful, I'd love to spend hours looking around, but I have a lunch to get to.

Now to get into Giusti, I had to find the Salumeria Giusti, which was closing it's shutters already. They close the shop, like almost all other shops during the afternoon, but you can get in if you have a lunch reservation by knocking on the shutters. After entering this tiny room full of some of the best meats and preserves, I was led through a door at the back into another small room with only four tables. This is the entire restaurant and they only open for lunch. I wanted to try as many dishes as I could, and luckily almost the entire menu is also available in half portions (mezza porzione). For Antipasti, I chose the Baccala Mantecato con pane (Salt cod whipped into a puree with oil, salt and pepper).


This was very nice, the texture was perfect and the flavour was delicate and great for getting the appetite going. For Primi, I tried the Tagliatelle al sugo di Guanciale (Tagiatelle with a sauce made from veal cheeks).

The pasta was perfectly cooked, with just a little bite to it and as you can see, the sauce just sticks to the pasta and the meat was tender and melting. Secondi I decided on the Maialino freddo con cipolle all'Aceto balsamico Stravecchio (cold suckling pig with onions caramelised with balsamic vinegar).


Wow. The suckling pig is first roasted with aromatics and then placed in cold olive oil and left for 10 days. The resulting pork has a texture very similar to tuna preserved in oil, but denser and with a stunning amount of flavour. I was wishing I ordered a full portion rather than a half. The caramelised onions were sticky, sweet and sensational. How could they not be with balsamic from Modena?

At this point, I was very happy with the meal, and starting to get nervous about making the more than two hour drive, but after three amazing courses, I just couldn't leave without dessert. Asking the waitress which was the quickest dessert, I was offered a selection and chose the chocolate mousse. Now many of you may know I am not a big chocolate fan, but I do like dark, bitter chocolate, so when I heard that this was made with dark chocolate I had to try it.

This was a very dense mousse and unfortunately I forgot to ask for a half portion and got the full one instead, but I managed to struggle though and it just the way I like my chocolate, dark and rich with just enough bitterness to cut through the sweetness.

Hosteria Giusti is a dinin experience I would recommend to anyone, the price is on the higher side but worth every cent. Just make sure you book.

Bologna

Bologna has given its name to perhaps the most famous pasta sauce in the world - Bolognese. Spaghetti Bolognese is possibly the best known Italian dish in the world, but the funny thing is you wont find it in Bologna. Here the sauce is called Ragu and is served with tagliatelle, not spaghetti. Another very famous product of this area is Bologna Sausage, which Amercans call Baloney and Australians call Mortadella.

One of the restaurants I that decide to try is called La Trattoria del Rosso, which has a very reasonably priced lunch menu and is almost always full. I started with the antipasto of mixed salumi served with a fresh creamy cheese and fresh fried dough crostini.


This was a great selection of four different salumi, including prosciutto and mortadella. The cheese was creamy and mild.

Of course had to try the ragu, but since the menu had both tagliatelle and tortelloni with ragu, I decideded to try the tortelloni.


The meat was very finely minced, even though different restaurants have different ragus, some chunkier than others. The pasta was very nicely cooked and I was full at two courses, a great lunch.

After spending several days walking around the town looking at all the chruches and sights of Bologna (it's a beautiful city and many of the sights are within walking distance of each other) and doing a bit of research on the internet about which restaurants to visit, I found some discussion of a restaurant called Ristorante Pappagallo, a very old school place (90 years old) which is very proud of it's history and has photos all over the walls of famous people eating there from many decades ago. Located under the shadow of the Two Towers (a major landmark near the centre of the town), Papagallo serves high-end Bolognese cuisine. I wasn't anywhere near hungry enough for a full meal, but I didn't want to miss out on the opportunity to eat here, so I decided on entree and dessert. To start, the risotto with prawns, apples and zucchini flowers grabbed my attention.


These flavours worked very well together and the rice was perfectly cooked and seasoned, I was very happy with this. For dessert I had the strawberry mousse with balsamic vinegar reduction.


The mousse was light, without being too airy, the flavour of strawberries was delicate and the blasamic balanced the sweetness with its acidity.

Bologna is an amazing place to visit and I would love to come back here again.